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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.